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Strangely, despite the potential for lowered self-esteem, rude customers, and insane managers, I take pleasure in the job.
I like eating delicious food and I enjoy assisting other people in this pursuit.
Chefs, by the time they earn their whites, are considered artists. They are told to use the bathroom in the kitchen, obey managers, stay off their cell phones, enter through the side door, and be quiet, attentive, and busy at all times.
GQ's Alan Richman recently opened a discussion on declining service standards at popular New York City restaurants, and his article, in the September issue, made me think about how servers' attitudes and levels of professionalism can vary depending on where they are.
New York City, where I live and work and where Richman had an unpleasant experience that set off his piece, is of course a metropolis of haves and have-nots—and your waiter is probably a not.
However much you love David Chang's pork buns, the people ensuring that they arrive hot probably don't get health care.
They probably don't have a contract, their shifts might be cut at any time, they might be sent home early, and the amount of money they make daily might depend on a complex calculation of the number of bottles of wine sold divided by the number of busboys on the floor. I started waitressing in high school, but after college I moved to New Orleans and worked at the Besh Restaurant group, which for three days sequestered its staff for an "Excellence in Service" seminar taught by Eric Weiss.
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Beyond the memory games, the course included pearls like: Don't ask table 51 if they would like "another" cocktail, ask if they would like a "fresh" cocktail—the former may make them feel like a boozehound. Did someone just show up with a gigantic stroller and ask your server to park it? Is the screwy waiter losing it over how much silverware your server didn't polish?